Watches and Wonders 2023 New Releases

Watches and Wonders is undoubtedly the most important event for watch enthusiasts. Every year, the best luxury watch manufacturers welcome thousands of fans to discover their new watch releases. 

Last year, attendance was very high, with over 22,000 watch fans hoping to get a chance to see their favorite brands and their new watches. And, even though the public was queuing up to get their hands on a brand-new MoonSwatch, we still saw some great releases from brands like Rolex, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Grand Seiko.

So, what’s in store for 2023? This year, many watch fans were expecting exciting new releases from the best luxury Swiss watch brands. Did they actually deliver? Was the exhibition successful? And which were the best and most exciting new releases of Watches & Wonders 2023? 

If you want the answers to these questions, keep reading our coverage of Watches & Wonders 2023!

The Most Exciting Watch Releases from Watches and Wonders 2023

This year will definitely be one to remember for watch fans around the world. Almost all major watch brands attended the exhibition and presented new watches for 2023. Here are some of the highlights that caught our attention from the sea of exciting new releases:


Rolex Daytona 2023 Watches and Wonders Release

Image: Rolex 

Whether you like it or not, Rolex is usually at the forefront of any conversation regarding Watches and Wonders. The Rolex brand releases new watches only once year, and everyone goes wild for them.

This year marked the 60th anniversary of the Rolex Daytona, arguably the brand’s most popular model at the moment. To celebrate, Rolex updated its entire Daytona lineup with a new, more tapered case design and small visual updates on the dial and bezel. 

The biggest change for the watch was in the back, as the new Daytona features the updated Rolex caliber 4131. The new movement comes with a 72-hour power reserve and a unique rotor design visible through the transparent caseback (unfortunately, only available in the Ice Platinum model).

Other exciting new releases for the brand include a beautiful Oyster Perpetual with a unique Celebration Motif and a highly-anticipated new Yacht-Master 42 with a titanium case and bracelet. Unfortunately, fans of the Rolex Milgauss will have to say goodbye to this beloved Rolex model. Maybe Rolex has a new Milgauss in mind for next year?


Rolex’s sister company, Tudor, had an equally impressive Watches and Wonders, with multiple amazing new watches in its catalog. To us, the most notable is the new Tudor Black Bay 54. 

This 37 mm dive watch is a nod to the first-ever dive watch the brand released all the way back in 1954. The timepiece has a vintage aesthetic and will be an ideal option for those who want a relatively small yet robust and reliable dive watch.

The Black Bay lineup for Tudor got several upgrades, including the new Black Bay Master Chronometer, with a METAS-certified caliber and a beautiful burgundy bezel. Additionally, the standard Black Bay, one of the best entry-level luxury automatic watches, is now available in multiple sizes and strap options, including a beautiful new jubilee bracelet.

Finally, there’s the new Black Bay GMT, which now features a stunning white opaline dial. This watch bears a striking resemblance to the legendary “Albino” GMT Master II ref. 6542, an extremely rare white dial variation of the first-ever Rolex GMT watch from 1954. 

Now, all that’s left for Tudor to do is offer the new white Black Bay GMT on a jubilee bracelet to complete this killer retro look!

The Holy Trinity

Vacheron Constantin Retrograde Overseas 2023 Watches and Wonders

No watch exhibition is complete without some new releases from the Holy Trinity of watch brands. This year, Patek Philippe had a relatively quiet Watches and Wonders that focused on sport watches like the new Aquanaut model. 

The new reference comes in a beautiful rose gold case with a gorgeous blue dial and matching rubber strap and features the annual calendar complication for the first time.

Highlights from Audemars Piguet include a new titanium Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar and an exciting new Code 11.59 in stainless steel. However, the watch that stood out the most was a gorgeous yellow-gold Royal Oak with a bright turquoise dial. This will definitely be a massive hit, thanks to the current trends for this dial color.

Retrograde was the name of the game for Vacheron Constantin, who released three new watches with this unique date complication in the Traditionnelle, Patrimony, and Overseas collections. The latter of the three is the most exciting, as it adds a special touch to an otherwise familiar and popular stainless steel sports watch.

Fashion Brands

Fashion watch brands are notorious for prioritizing form over function. However, there are several luxury fashion brands that produce excellent high-end timepieces. The most notable of these is Cartier, which had a very exciting set of new watches for 2023.

Highlights among the Cartier 2023 releases include the Tank Normale in gold and platinum with matching bracelets. The Tank Normale is a more hefty wristwatch, thanks to the square design, which makes it wear larger on the wrist. Thus, it makes for an excellent option for enthusiasts with larger-than-average wrists.

Another significant Cartier release was a brand-new green dial for the Santos De Cartier. The Santos has increased in popularity as watch fans look for more elegant yet sporty timepieces on stainless steel bracelets. 

This watch features all that – albeit with a fairly scratch-prone polished bezel – plus the ability to change the strap quickly thanks to its quick-release mechanism. Now in green, there are even more options for those who prefer a funkier take on a classic watch.

Additionally, Chopard brought out an exceptional new dress watch, the L.U.C. 1860. The watch resembles older versions from the 1990s, with excellent proportions and a gorgeous guilloche salmon dial. If you want a conversation starter, this is the timepiece for you!


Most watch fans have connected the name Gérald Genta with the Royal Oak or the Nautilus. However, the famous watch designer created several timepieces during the 1970s, including the IWC Ingenieur SL. The Ingenieur collection was due for a refresh for a few years now, and IWC finally delivered it in Watches and Wonders 2023. 

The new IWC Ingenieur maintains the same design philosophy as the original Genta design, with a beautifully machined and finished angular case. In addition to the stainless steel model, there is also a titanium variation, and both of them feature stunning dials in multiple colors.

Apart from its steep price tag, IWC knocked it out of the park with the new Ingenieur. If you’re looking for an original Genta design with modern specifications and have the budget for it, the new IWC Ingenieur should definitely be on your radar!


Oris Kermit Watches and Wonders 2023

Image: Oris

Oris is one of the few luxury watch brands that remain independent and strives to produce cutting-edge watches with in-house movements. 

The best example of the brand’s design philosophy is the Pro Pilot X collection, which features a sporty case design and titanium build with a matching integrated bracelet. What if we told you this industrial-looking watch just got a whole lot more fun?

Enter the new Oris Pro Pilot X Kermit Edition! For years, the nickname “Kermit” had been associated with Rolex Submariner references, but now there’s an actual Kermit watch that’s fully licensed by Disney. 

The Oris Pro Pilot X Kermit features the same design as the original model with a beautiful lime green dial, which matches the color of our favorite frog. Plus, the date window now features Kermit himself in place of the first day of each month, which Oris has aptly named “Kermit Day”.

Here's To Another Great Watch Year

The new year for most people begins in January. However, for us watch fans, the fun usually starts around April, and Watches and Wonders 2023 was no different. It’s when we’re finally able to witness all the best watch brands present the hard work of an entire year or even multiple years.

At Operandi Firenze, our passion for luxury watches drives us to craft the best watch rolls in the market. Our goal is to ensure your brand-new luxury watches are safe in a secure and elegant watch roll.

That’s why we source only the best Italian leather available and rigorously test all our watch rolls to ensure their reliability. Consider purchasing one of our premium watch rolls to keep new luxury watches safe when they’re not on your wrist!

So, go out there, enjoy everything the New Watch Year has to offer, and don't forget to keep an eye on the time!